We met our guide Ted and driver Mr Ko and headed out to get our first view of the temples and stupas. They were all built over 2 and 1/2 centuries between the 11th and 13th centuries startingu with King Anawrahta when he was first converted to Buddhism. Not quite in the peaceful way one expects from a Buddhist he ordered temples to be built to reflect his new found religion, which was more it appears in the form of a takeover. Initially they were similar to temples in India and Sri Lanka in architecture before they formed their own style. Most of the temples are built from small red bricks with the more important ones with gold leafed stupas. These are particularly spectacular at sunset when their colours get highlighted. Bagan is very dry, particularly in winter helping with the preservation of the temples as there is little impact from rain or vegetation growing over them. So picture a dusty plain with some trees and thousands of red and gold temples varying in size and a couple of large white washed temples thrown in for good measure. It would literally take a year to visit them all, so the trick is to find what type of temple, architecture or history appeals.
We visited a couple on the way to our hotel, one providing us a good view of the surrounding plain and the other a large golden stupa where a ghost had been photographed about 20 years ago (which took Luke's interest) and was unusual in that it had 5 entrances rather than the normal 4 entrances of a traditional Buddhist temple. All have images of Buddha within, usually in the form of a large statue and often further statues inset into the wall or frescoes, paintings on the walls.
We checked into the hotel and determined that the Gardes had also arrived before heading out to visit the market that was being held for a month specifically for the festival. We were very disappointed to find that we had been advised incorrectly and had the full moon ceremony had been the day before as our itinerary has been scheduled around this. However there were still many monks and locals in the area. The festival market was huge selling everything from furniture, cart wheels, knives, all types of food, fish, toys, coffee, tobacco, bags, machinery, plastic goods... Everything that the locals may need. Bouncing castles and Ferris wheels were also there for entertaining the kids. The markets move around every month depending on where the festival is taking place in Mynamar.
After the market we visited the temple which it was next to, which is the most religiously significant in Bagan, Ananda Pahto. Monks were chanting inside and continue to do so for 14 days, 24 hours a day during the festival. Hundreds of small Buddha sculptures depicting the life of Buddha are recessed into the walls of the temple. 4 large Buddha figures are at the end of each entrance. Smaller sitting Buddhas are placed in front of them where pilgrims can place gold leaf on an area of the body as an offering if they have an ailment for example on their knees. The boys both gave offerings to the Buddhas knees maybe in sympathy of their parents, but I doubt it.
We then visited another temple, Htilominio Pahto famous for being the location of where King Nantaungmys was chosen as king by his father breaking tradition by an umbrella, and also the carvings on its walls. We ended up buying some silver jewellery, at an inflated price, puppets and a small sculpture. The vendors are very difficult to say no to.
After this temple we stopped for lunch. Lots of people are riding bikes around the temples or small electric bikes. Hot work as it is very sunny, dusty and must be in the 30's. The boys headed back to the hotel after lunch whilst Mandy visited a couple of other temples Manuha Paya where 3 enormous Buddhas are housed in small enclosures supposedly to reflect the stress and discomfort of King Manuha who was held captive nearby. Nan Paya nearby was where he was actually held captive and is famous for its intricate Buddha carvings inside. Some monks were there taking photos of the carvings with their mobile phones. Again vendors made it difficult not to succumb to buying some of the local handicrafts, and Mandy ended up having an elephant painted on the arm. The final temple Gubyaukgyi ( great painted cave temple) is famous for its beautiful paintings of the life of Buddha which are incredibly beautiful and well preserved.
After picking the boys up we headed out to Shwesandaw Paya, not a particularly attractive temple and one of the few white washed temples, but famous for its location. The view from the top level of the surrounding plain and the red and gold temples lighting up as the sun sets is really impressive. A little marred by the other couple of hundred tourists also there.
From there back to the Ruby True and a quiet night of dinner at the hotel with the Gardes after a long day.
Location:Bagan
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