Day 10 Bagan 6 January

We woke up in the morning to the sound of the hot air balloons landing in the field next door to our hotel. A very impressive sight. A popular but expensive way to see the temples at sunrise, up to 20 can be out at one time. We decided to give the temples a break this morning and headed out along the dusty roads to see one of the local villages, stopping along on the way to pick up some pens and books and sweets as gifts. Difficult to know what is the right thing to bring. The landscape is very dry as we head out, with no water in sight. Locals are dependent on dams filling up in the summer or if they are lucky having a local well. Many are loathe to use it though as they have to pay for the generator to get the water out of the well.

The land is well used with palms separating farmers fields which are used for building, palm sugar and making local drinks of Palm wine and whisky. As it is the dry season they are mainly dust and we stopped to see some locals ploughing the fields with their cattle and picking the peanuts out of the dried vines which are then made into stacks to feed the cattle. Everything is used.

Before entering the village we walked around the local forest which is being protected to prevent the locals from cutting down the trees. They have been told the Nats (the traditional gods) live in the trees of the forest which frightens them from touching it.

We watched water being taken from the local well and filled into barrels on the back of carts then delivered into the village by the cattle. Walking around the village, the people were very welcoming and the children very curious. Peanuts were being ground up by a huge wooden pestle to make oil for cooking,driven by a cow going in circles and encouraged to move by someone sitting behind. The peanut left behind is fed to the animals. The houses are primarily built of wood and palm leaves. Huge ceramic pots hold the precious water. Big baskets of rice, nuts and dried plums can be seen. Cooking is done inside on a small wooden fire.

Preparations are being made for a number of the local boys (12) becoming novice monks. This is an important time and is reflected by the holding of a 2 day celebration. Over 600 people are coming from local villages and need to be fed and sheltered so 2 new pavilions are being built. We are shown the invitation by the proud father hosting the event, which is very elaborate with photos of his son outside the Yangon temple in gold and white silk robes. Despite the size of the celebration most of the boys only last around 10 days which is considered perfectly acceptable. This appears to be primarily because they are not allowed to eat after midday which many find difficult to do. Girls become nuns, although not to such fan fare.

2 policeman arrive as a military official will be arriving soon to view the huge 1000 year old tamarind tree located near the monastery. Security checks are being done before he arrives. The military are not popular. We walk to the local school and present the teachers with the pens and papers and look around. There are 200 children at the school. They are friendly and curious and like seeing photos taken of themselves. The boys take on some of the monk children at soccer shoot out, but neither side is able to score.

We head back to town and have a lovely lunch by the Aerawaddy river. The boys want a break and we drop them off at the hotel before Mandy and Liam visit a couple of other temples in the afternoon. We buy a painting from a local lady who has a very sweet daughter and a son who wants to be a doctor. Picking up the boys again ( Hugo is included in our day today) we head out to see the largest temple Dhammayangyi which the boys clamber all over. It was built by a king out of guilt for killing his father, brother and one of his wives. Puppets have been hung in the trees out the front by a vendor which is very effective. It is also popular with the local monks and we see a number chanting inside. We then visit Sulamani Pahto, a beautiful temple and built later in the time when they have become better at the architecture for allowing light and building more to a pyramid effect. Again lots of monks were around including a group of female nuns visiting outside.

It is a spectacular sunset as we head back to the festival market as Luke has a strong need to add a local knife to his weapon collection. We also watch some of the locals practise with their hacky ball which they play a form of volleyball and also demonstrate their foot and head skills. It's a popular sport in Asia.

Back at the hotel we meet the rest of the Gardes and walk up to the Welcome restaurant where they have a puppet show and some traditional dance as well as excellent food. We are certainly eating well. The local food consists of various forms of rice and noodle dishes, curries, fresh fruit juices and salads depending on what is in season. Happily, avocadoes are in season. Feeling well fed, we had back down the dusty road to the ruby true where we all retire for the evening.

Location:Bagan